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Herbalism is one of the most important skills a homesteader can have. The world is full of medicinal plants, and no matter where you live, chances are your plot of land is full of them. When you find a new herb to work with, you’ll often start by making an herbal salve.
Herbal ointments are among the safest and easiest herbal remedies to prepare.
They are external – you apply them to your body instead of taking them internally like teas and tinctures. Here’s how to prepare herbal ointments for your first aid kit:
The difference between ointments, balms and lotions
Despite their ease of making, herbal ointments can be powerful healers. The strength of the ointment depends on many factors. The type and concentration of herbs, the type of oil, the duration of the infusion and the addition of essential oils.
The resurgence of herbalism is contributing to the popularization of specialty herbs: ashwagandha, turmeric and schizandra are great, but so are the humble people. Medicinal plants like birch, pine, lavender and chamomile are easy to find in your yard and garden.
When we talk about ointments, we are specifically referring to semi-solid herbal ointment. In many commercial products, ointments can look a lot like lotions. All can include additives like essential oils and secondary fats like shea or cocoa butter.
So what is the difference between ointments, balms and lotions?
Ointments
A pomade is a mixture of fat (usually oil) and beeswax. They are usually a little soft, but solid at room temperature. Herbal ointments may contain the highest concentration of herbal properties because they are such simple products.
Ointments also encourage higher absorption rates of herbal properties, as the fats stimulate the skin’s natural ability to absorb nutrients.
Balms
Balms are balms that have a higher content of beeswax. Balms are often quite firm, even in the summer heat. They are ideal for travelers as they won’t melt or spill in hot weather.
In cold weather, the extra beeswax provides a bit more protection against winter wind and cold. I love making cold weather balms to protect my face and hands while caring for animals during New England winters.
lotions
Lotions contain water. Since oil and water don’t usually mix, this means lotions often require the use of emulsifying wax to maintain their smooth texture.
Lotions have a smoother, less greasy texture than ointments and balms. They contain fats, but these fats are usually made up of seed butters, milks, or lighter oils.
A well-made lotion can be a wonderful tool in your herbal medicine kit, but it doesn’t perform as well as ointments and balms.
Best herbs for making ointment
The herbs extract well in oil. But there are a few herbs that are particularly ideal for first-time (or second-time) salve makers. Try burdock, chamomile, and plantain if you’re making a balm for rough, itchy, or sensitive skin.
Use ginger or cayenne pepper (in small doses) to make a warming ointment for cold winter joints. Yarrow, ginger and nettles promote blood circulation for healthy circulation, while peppermint, plantain and lavender make an excellent anti-itch balm.
Work with the herbs on hand for your first salves, and pay attention to herbalists’ advice if you’re unsure of how and when to use certain herbs.
Choose your oil
Ok, you have your herbs, now it’s time to make an infused oil. You will use this oil as the base of your herbal ointment. Different oils will all give a slightly different effect. I like to use castor oil for more intense ointments, like my winter ‘cold hands’ ointment and my lymphatic ointment.
Olive oil is an excellent base oil for all-purpose ointments and baby diaper ointments. Almond or argan oils make an excellent base for ointments and balms that you might use on your face, neck, and chest.
Coconut oil is a fantastic oil, but its natural solidity at room temperature, as well as its tendency to dry out some skin types, makes it less than ideal in this application.
Infuse the oil
Fill a jar (size depends on how much ointment you want to make. Best to start with half a pint, to get the feel of things). It’s usually best to fill the jar about ¾ of the way up. Leave the top quarter of the jar to allow room for the herbs to expand as they absorb the oil.
Usually, it’s best to use dried herbs, as fresh herbs introduce varying amounts of moisture into your oil. But some herbs only brew really well when fresh, like St. John’s Wort. If you’re not sure, check out a reputable reference guide like The Complete Medicinal Herbal by Penelope Ody.
Once the herbs fill at least half, but ideally three quarters of the pot, cover them completely with oil. Then cover the pot and leave it in the sun for about 2-3 weeks.
Your herbs will infuse better if you give them time in the sun. Turn the jar once or twice a day to make sure all the herbs stay coated in the oil.
At the end of this time, take a piece of cheesecloth and strain the oil through it. Be sure to remove all vegetable matter from the oil. Now you have a nice jar of herb-infused oil. You are ready to make a pomade.
Mix oil and wax
With a jar of beautiful oil, you are only steps away from a finished balm. If you have a half pint of infused oil (about 8 ounces), you will need about 2 ounces of beeswax. This report is quite fluid. A little more beeswax, and you’ll have a firmer balm – maybe even a balm. Less beeswax will result in a soft pomade.
If you retain a little oil and a little wax, you can of course correct if your herbal ointment is too soft or too firm.
Beeswax comes in the form of bars or small pellets. Pellets are easier to work with, but they also tend to be more expensive. If you used 100% beeswax candles, you can cut them up to use in your balm instead. If you are vegan, you can use carnauba wax instead of beeswax, but avoid using highly processed soy or paraffin waxes.
Weigh the appropriate amount of wax (1 part wax to 4 parts oil). Put the oil and wax in a double boiler. Melt it gently over low heat. I use a glass jar, in a pot of water, on the wood stove. Stir occasionally. When all the wax is melted, remove the pan from the heat and pour it into jars or cans to cool.
Complements
If you add shea butter, cocoa butter, coconut oil, or other soft solids to your herbal salve, drop them in after the beeswax has melted, but before to take the pan off the heat. Incorporate these soft fats gently. When they have melted into the mixture, you can pour the liquid ointment into its containers.
You can add about an ounce or two of these soft solids without much impact on your final product. If you add more, you will need to add a little more oil.
So 1 part wax and 1 part shea butter to 4 parts oil should be enough. It will be a little firmer and much creamier. But if you want to increase that to 2 parts shea butter and 1 part wax, you’ll probably need to balance it out with 5 parts oil.
Play around with the measurements to find the consistency that works best for you. Honestly, there aren’t many hard and fast rules in this area of herbalism.
Essential oils
Many people put essential oils in their ointments. Ointments are a great place for essential oils because the oils and wax in the ointment dilute the essential oils. Essential oils can be very harsh on the skin without a carrier oil to dilute them. In an ointment, they contain both oil and beeswax to lessen the impact.
But the balm also forms a barrier between the essential oil and the outside world. The oil and wax in the ointment will prevent your essential oil from washing out quickly, giving it more time to enter your system. It’s a perfect way to give your feet a little mint refreshment or help an antibacterial essential oil like oregano protect the cut on your finger.
Storage
Once the herbal ointment has set, check it. If it’s too firm or too soft, you’ll need to remove it and adjust the mixture. But if it’s perfect, cap your ointment jar and place it in the medicine cabinet, apothecary’s shelf, or purse.
Anywhere with moderate temperatures, away from direct sunlight, this is a great spot for salves.
Herbal ointments can be stored in a cupboard or shelf for about 1-2 years. If you keep them below 70 degrees and above 32°F, they can last up to 4 years. If they are still there after 4 years, check them carefully for any signs of deterioration. Remember that old ointments are often less potent than new ones, and use them with care.
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