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If you’re looking for a versatile food plant that’s as prolific as it is tasty, consider growing moringa. These Indian natives can be grown indoors in cooler climates, or outdoors if you live somewhere hot.
Their leaves are packed with protein, vitamin C, iron and calcium and can be eaten by both humans and herbivorous animals.
Read on to learn more about these fabulous trees and how you can grow them at home!
Contents
What are the benefits of growing Moringa?
Moringa (Moringa oleifera), also known as drumstick, is a staple food in many parts of the world and has countless benefits. It is native to northwest India, but has since been naturalized throughout Asia and parts of Africa.
This tree is pretty much entirely edible, from its delicious spinach-like leaves to its spicy, horseradish-tasting roots.
When it comes to nutrition, it’s one of those powerhouse superfoods that’s so popular right now. The leaves contain twice as much iron as an equivalent amount of spinach and are also rich in calcium, beta-carotene, potassium, protein, carbohydrates and healthy dietary fats.
A single moringa can offer the same amount of nutrients as a garden full of different vegetables, all in one convenient place.
Now consider that a single tree can reach 60 to 100 feet tall at maturity. That’s a lot of food on one plant! Plus, its leaves aren’t just great for human consumption: herbivores like goats, sheep, rabbits, and other small animals love it too.
It is even considered a superfood for birds and is often fed to chickens to improve their size and overall health.
If you live somewhere tropical or subtropical, you can grow moringa as one of your vital outdoor trees. Otherwise, you can grow them indoors in large containers. Don’t forget to prune them regularly. If you don’t, they’ll shoot through the roof.
Starting the seed
You will undoubtedly come across several different suggestions when it comes to starting seeds. Growing moringa from seed can be a bit tricky as the seeds can be difficult to germinate.
Your best bet is to soak them for 24 to 36 hours beforehand to help break their dormant period. After that, there are several different options.
Some people suggest wrapping them in a moistened paper towel and putting them in open plastic bags. Others simply place them in soil and allow them to do their job.
I have had the most success germinating moringa seeds by soaking them for about a day and then planting them in seed starting medium. It is a mixture of potting soil, perlite, vermiculite and coconut.
Patience is key, as these seeds can take a while to germinate. The fastest germination I’ve seen was 8 days, while most take at least a few weeks. I even had one that sprouted nearly four month after planting!
The key is to keep the soil moist, but not wet, and warm.
Since moringa is a tropical/subtropical plant, it does not do well in cold weather. Your best bet is to keep yours in a jar indoors on a sunny counter. If there is too much temperature variation or if there is a sudden cold snap, the seed will not develop.
Soil and sun requirements
Moringa does best in loamy, partly sandy, neutral to slightly acidic soil that drains fairly well. That said, these trees will grow in just about any type of soil as long as it drains well. They are known to thrive even in poor, depleted soils.
The only type of soil that moringa does not grow in is compacted and overhydrated.
Regarding sunlight, moringa needs direct light to grow well. In fact, if it doesn’t get at least six hours of direct sunlight a day, it will completely fail to thrive. That’s why it does best in USDA hardiness zones 9-12.
These areas provide the sunlight and warmth that trees need to reach their maximum potential.
If you’re growing yours outdoors, plant it in the sunniest spot you have. Also, make sure there are no tall trees or buildings nearby that could shade it.
Alternatively, if you are growing moringas indoors, place them in the sunniest spot available. I have mine located near my south facing patio windows and they do just fine there.
That said, if you live in a northern climate, you may need to offer them extra light during the winter months. Full-spectrum LED lights are great substitutes for natural sunlight in cases like these.
Watering and feeding
Moringa does not like wet feet, so avoid overwatering.
In fact, the best thing you can do for the health of your plants is to let the soil dry out a bit between drinks. These trees do best with deep, infrequent soakings rather than regular waterings. When a finger stuck in the soil is dry to the knuckle, it’s a good time to water them.
If your moringa looks wilted or the leaves seem to be yellowing, check the water levels. They are sensitive to moisture and the soil may be too dry or too wet. If you find the soil is doing well, you may need to give them additional nutrients.
Moringa needs a fertilizer richer in nitrogen than phosphorus or potassium. As such, aim for a 3-1-1 fertilizer. Simply follow the directions on the container regarding dilution. Be sure to fertilize a few inches from the trunk and don’t fertilize too often.
Additionally, you can also mix aged manure or slow-release, nitrogen-rich fertilizer into the soil before planting or when transplanting to prevent nutrient deficiencies in the future.
Potential problems
If you are growing moringa indoors, you are unlikely to have too many insect problems.
Mites can jump on your tree(s) other plants, and you can get some fruit flies on the pods but that’s about it.
On the other hand, outdoor plants can also be confronted with aphids or be defoliated by voracious the caterpillars, cutwormWhere leaf miners. These can be treated by spraying neem oil around and using diatomaceous earth at ground level.
Generally, however, the main potential disease problems of moringa revolve around to rot too much water. As long as you don’t overwater the soil, you should be able to avoid any potential root or stem rot it may suffer from.
In humid and warm outdoor conditions, moringa can also suffer from powdery mildew. If you see it appearing on the leaves, cut off the affected areas immediately. Then treat the rest of the plant with an antifungal agent such as a topical garlic, copper or sulfur spray.
Harvest and storage
To harvest moringa leaves, cut them with a clean, sharp knife at a 45 degree angle. This is the easiest and healthiest way to harvest and will also ensure the growth of new leaves. Similarly, if you harvest the pods, cut them with a pair of transparent scissors or secateurs. You can eat them raw or cook them like snow peas.
To access the moringa root, it will obviously be necessary to uproot young trees. This is fine if you have acres of trees to eat, but not if you only grow one or two indoors.
Fresh leaves and pods don’t last very long, so refrigerate them as soon as possible if you’re not going to eat them right away. Try to consume them within a few days to get the most nutrients.
Alternatively, you can dry the leaves in a dehydrator for later. I dry some of mine at 130°F for about eight hours, then run them through a coffee grinder. It makes a very fine powder that I add to soups, smoothies and sauces all year round. I also dry other whole leaves to add to my rabbit’s winter forage.
To store dry leaves successfully, store them in airtight glass jars with food-grade silica packets.
As you can see, growing moringa is much easier than you might have imagined! Moreover, its benefits far outweigh any potential problems that might arise. A little time and effort can yield spectacular returns.
After all, the average moringa will live over 30 or 40 years! How about a life of nutritious and delicious greenery in your own home? It looks pretty fabulous to me.
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