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The art of growing and propagating plants saves you costs and is a smart step towards a self-reliant, more sustainable gardener. With prices rising, learning the skills to multiply what you already have is a worthwhile endeavor.
With cuttings you don’t have to wait for seeds to sprout, you are guaranteed to have plants that are identical to the parents, and you will get stronger, faster maturing plants because they got off to a great start. .
Let’s explore four main types of cuttings and the techniques you can use to propagate your plants.
Contents
The difference between the types of cut
The type of cutting and how to propagate depends on the part of the plant used, the type of plant and the season in which you take the cutting.
Hardwood cuttings

These are taken from deciduous and evergreen leafy trees and shrubs. Take cuttings from a dormant plant in late fall to early spring, except when the wood is frozen. Take the more mature wood material from the plant rather than the green parts.
Hardwood cuttings are suitable for plants such as pines (Pines spp.), oaks (Quercus spp.) hardy fuchsias (Fuchsia spp.), figs (ficus spp.), poplars (popular spp.), currants (Ribes uva-crispa), climbing roses (Pink spp.), currants (Ribes rubrum) and jasmine (Jasmine spp.).
Semi-hardwood cuttings

Also called a semi-mature cutting, this type is taken from semi-green stems in the middle to the end of their growing season. They are not new shoots, nor fully matured.
Usually these types are harvested in late summer to early fall, but it depends on the species you are cutting and where you live.
This type works for:
- salvia (Salvia spp.)
- Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus)
- Bay (Noble Laurus),
- lavender (Lavender spp.)
- Thyme (Thymus vulgaris)
- Sage (Salvia officinalis)
- Hyssop (Hyssopus officinale)
- Ivy (Hedera spp.)
- Rhododendron (Rhododendron spp.)
- Passion Flower (Passionflower spp.)
- Honeysuckle (Lonicera spp.)
- Witch Hazel (Witch Hazel spp.)
- Larch (Larix spp.)
- Elm (Ulmus spp.)
- Laurel, both cherry (Prunus laurocerasus) or Portuguese (P. lusitanica)
- Privet (ligustrum spp.)
- Boxwood (Boxwood spp.)
- Camellia (Camellia spp.)
- Hardy Fuchsias (Fuchsia spp.)
- Viburnum (Viburnum spp.)
Softwood cuttings

This type is taken from the current year’s growth from the young stems of hardy or tender perennials, usually from spring to early summer.
This technique works best on plants like clematis (Clematis spp.), aster (Aster spp.), fuchsias (Fuchsia spp.), hydrangea (Hydrangea spp.), verbena (Verbena spp.), magnolia (Magnolia spp.) and roses (Pink spp.).
Herbaceous cuttings
This type of cutting comes from a plant without wood growth. Being more tender, they are usually taken from spring to summer. Ideal for plants such as dahlias (Dahlia spp.), impatiens (Impatiens spp.), coleus (Coleus spp.), poinsettias (Euphorbia pulcherrima), and chrysanthemums (Chrysanthemum spp.).
How to prepare to take cuttings
There are fundamental tools and products you will need to take cuttings. Configure them before starting the propagation. Here is a quick list to get you ready:
- Secateurs, kitchen scissors or a knife. Any scissor-like tool can be used if it is sharp enough to cut through the plant stem cleanly and efficiently.
- Rubbing alcohol, detergent or warm soapy water. This is to remove any residual dirt from the tools. Previous gardening activities could risk spreading disease.
- A container. Cuttings should be protected from drying out and damage before treatment. Hardwood and semi-hardwood cuttings benefit from a cup of warm water. A plastic bag or bowl will help keep the softwood and herbaceous cuttings moist.
- Flower pots. With all types of cuttings, consideration must be given to the development time of the cuttings, root systems, climate and time of year, future division and replanting of the cuttings. The pot should be free-draining.
- Culture centre. It should be soilless, free-draining, and loose in consistency: perlite, vermiculite, sand, soilless potting soil, or a combination of peat moss.
- A rooting hormone. There are different types of gel and powder rooting hormones in the market. Check that the one you will use matches the type of plant and cutting you are taking.
- Cloth. Have a clean rag dry the cut ends before using rooting hormone.
- Labels and pen. It is essential to label the cuttings if you are taking them from different plants.
- Trowel, dibble or finger. To place the cutting in the right place with minimal rooting hormone disturbance, make a hole in the growing medium.
- Spray. This is to keep the growing medium moist if you keep them under cover.
How to propagate plants by cuttings
All cuttings can be made the same way, but there are details to know about each type.
In the types of cuttings, the steps can vary depending on the species you are working with. For example, you might take longer hardwood to cut a fig than a fuchsia.
You can grow pine cuttings outdoors year-round, but fuchsia cuttings should be kept indoors during cold weather.
Dahlia tuber cuttings do not need growth hormone, unlike hardwoods.
Always start by cleaning the tools you will be using. Here are the general steps:
Hardwood cuttings

- Take the cuttings early in the morning, but avoid periods of severe frost, freezing temperatures or snow.
- Cut a section of stem about six inches long and half an inch in diameter. Cut at a 45° angle and under a leaf knot. Remove all but the top two or three leaves.
- Dry the ends of the cuttings and dip them in rooting hormone.
- Place a cutting in the growing medium, about two inches deep. Make a hole with the planter, a pencil or your finger.
- Place the pot in a greenhouse, on a windowsill or in a shaded and protected place. Keep the medium moist and watch for drying out or rotting. Remember to label them, as it will take a year before they are ready to be transplanted.
Semi-hardwood cuttings (semi-mature)

- Cut a three-inch cut after a junction and under a leaf node. If you take several cuttings at a time, collect them in a plastic bag to keep them moist.
- Remove the leaves from the lower third of the cutting to form part of the stem and roots.
- Dip each end in rooting hormone and place in the prepared jars. Secure by firmly patting the growing medium around the cutting stem.
- Place the cuttings in a greenhouse, cold frame or protected area with bright but indirect light. Protect them from freezing if you place them outside.
Softwood cuttings
- Take cuttings during warmer seasons and protect them from strong sunlight and heat. Transplant when roots form and after hardening.
- Take a five inch cutting with at least one leaf bud and a few leaves. Take cuttings early in the morning for a good supply of sap.
- Wrap the tip of the cutting, breaking or crushing the base to help root formation.
- Dive into rooting hormone.
- Place each cutting in the pre-prepared pots filled with soilless potting mix.
- Place containers where there is good air circulation. Softwood cuttings are tender and moisture should be maintained.
Herbaceous cuttings
- Select five inches of new growth to grow new plants, cutting under a leaf node at an angle. Place the cuttings in a plastic bag or bowl with water to maintain humidity while preparing them for repotting. Do this in the morning before the heat of the day, as these are delicate cuttings.
- Cut the upper foliage lightly to shock the cutting into producing roots. Rooting hormone is not needed with these cuttings, depending on the plant.
- If you are taking many cuttings from the same plants, use a cork tray. Make sure all the cuttings are the same length for easier handling of the tray. Place sand on the surface of the growing medium to firm up the cuttings and improve hygiene.
- Keep moist but not overwatered. Heat mats help accelerate root growth. Repot and pinch cuttings to encourage fuller plants and more growth before planting. Protect from bad weather and harden off before planting in the garden.
Problems when taking cuttings
A cutting that is too long may cause poor rooting because the cutting will put all of its energy into supporting the crown and not growing underground. The same goes for a cutting with too many leaves.
Long or leafy cuttings wither or rot before growth is achieved, resulting in a weak, stringy plant that is less productive in the garden.
Keep the medium moist to prevent drying out, but don’t overwater or the cutting will rot.
The leaves of the cuttings are exposed to pests such as thrips, spider mites, aphids and whiteflies. Leaf diseases can infiltrate, namely wilt, powdery mildew, gray mold (Botrytis) and damping off.
These will need to be dealt with quickly as they threaten the growth of new plants. Maintain good air circulation and isolate infected plants.
Hardening off plants before planting them in the ground helps new plants regulate themselves.

It takes time, so be patient. Softwood and grass cuttings are faster and more reliable, but the timing depends on the season you take them and your year’s planting plan.
Consider repotting once roots have developed significantly if there is a delay in planting due to weather conditions. All cuttings should be protected from heavy rain, frost, snow and freezing conditions when young.
Maintain the humidity of your growing medium and provide adequate shade and air circulation if propagating during the warmer months.
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