A spinning wheel can be an invaluable asset to any farm. In addition to being able to transform fibers of animal origin like sheep, alpaca or goat fleeces into usable fibers, they can also be used for cotton, hemp, bamboo, etc.
That said, some people find the cost of modern wheels prohibitive, as the most basic wheels start at around $650.
As such, refurbishing antique spinning wheels is also an option. Some people prefer to work on antique wheels because they feel a stronger connection to ancestral work with these machines.
Here’s what I’ve learned to help you refurbish your own spinning wheel – and decide if you even want to give it a try.
How I got an old spinning wheel
I’ve worked on both modern and antique wheels, but since I’m a hobbyist rather than a full-time spinner, I lean towards antique wheels over contemporary designs.
I live in rural Quebec, so there are a lot of antique stores around here. People settled in this area around 400 years ago, and absolute treasures can be found when people empty out their grandparents’ attics and garages.
Last fall, my partner surprised me with an old spinning wheel for our anniversary. To say I was thrilled would be an understatement, and I looked forward to transforming wick thread as soon as possible.
Unfortunately, it turned out to be a one-piece Frankenstein monster that needed a significant amount of renovation before it was usable.
I’ve chronicled the work we’ve done on it so far, as it’s now usable. It’s not over by far, as we still have to make or buy a few parts to make it perfect, but at least it’s running now!
Spinning wheel parts
Before we dive into everything we’ve fixed, let’s do a little 101 on spinning wheel parts so you know what I’m going to be talking about here.
Via Wikimedia CommonsParts of a pedal wheel:
- A – Wheel: This part is turned by the pedal and is the key to operating all other parts.
- B- drive band: A cord that goes around the wheel and the spiral of the leaflet so that they turn and twist while spinning or thread.
- VS- Flyer assembly: The flyer is a U-shaped tool with hooks. It has a pin running through it (with the hole on one end) and a coil on the pin. The thread or spun yarn is collected and wound around the spool.
- D- Girls: These vertical posts support the flyer assembly.
- E- Bearings: The strips of leather or metal that
- F- tension screw
- G- Pedal: This is the flat pedal that you push with your foot to spin the wheel.
- H- Footman: The bar that goes from the pedal to the brass crank attached to the wheel (to turn it).
- I – Pedal connection: Where the footman attaches to the pedal.
- J- pedal bar: The part that connects the pedal to two of the wheel legs.
- K- Painting: The basic frame that supports the wheel and the maidens.
- I- Distaff: Not found on all wheels, it contains the unspun fibers (roving) that you can tap into while you spin. Many modern spinners have the wick on their lap or a basket next to the wheel.
my wheel
This is my dual-drive spinning wheel, Charlotte (and my bunny companion, Birch). As you can see, it has no stopper (“L” in the diagram above) but has most other parts.
I mentioned earlier that my wheel is a “Frankenstein’s Monster”. That’s because it looks like it’s been cobbled together with parts from a few different wheels over the years. The main parts are those of the “Quebec Production” wheels, manufactured here between 1870 and 1955.
While most parts of the wheel are over a century old, the pedal and bar look more contemporary. A carpenter friend estimated that they were replaced during the 1980s.
I haven’t replaced these pieces yet because I need to order a few more pieces, so I’m using the messy cobblestone pieces as is.
how i treated it
The wheel was a dry, dusty mess when I brought it home. Everything creaked and moaned when it was moved, so I had to offer it some TLC.
First, I took everything apart and spread it out on a blanket. Then I wiped down each piece with a damp cloth to remove caked-on dust, cobwebs, and built-up grime.
Once that was cleaned up, I treated everything with homemade wood wax. This included 70% olive oil, 20% walnut oil and 10% beeswax. I also added a few drops of lemon essential oil as it makes the polish smell amazing.
Once the wood was processed, it was time to sort the metal. I used a steel wool brush to remove the rust, then applied mineral oil to everything. Once I reassembled the wheel, I was pleased to find that it had stopped squealing when it turned and the pedal moved much easier.
Spare parts
While most of my wheel was intact, there were a few parts that needed replacing.
Virgin bearings
Those pieces of leather that held the flyer and reel between the first posts were unusable. In fact, they fell apart when I was cleaning everything. Needless to say I have to replace them.
I used yarn as a temporary solution until I could get my hands on some thick leather. Once I’ve managed to score some, I’ll measure and cut the pieces to size, punch them out with an awl, and set them right side up with glue and rivets.
The next bit is slightly more intimidating.
No hole!
The draw hole is one of the most essential parts of a spinning wheel. This is a hole or loop that is at the end of the pin, and it is the part that allows you to feed the bit to connect to the flyer hooks. These will process and twist the fiber into yarn or thread so you can work with it.
Well, sometime in the last century some fool decided to weld the hole in my wheel axle, rendering it unusable.
I tied a pen cap to one of the maidens with wire as a temporary solution and ordered a similar undamaged antique leaflet assembly overseas. It hasn’t arrived yet, but I’m so looking forward to using it instead.
The wonky pen cap does the trick for now, but it’s far from ideal. I can’t wait to try this with a flyer assembly that actually works the way it’s supposed to!
drive band
This is the cord that wraps around the wheel and attaches to the spool to make it spin. I created my own drive band by winding cotton and wool yarn together on a drop spindle, then wrapping it around the double drive and bobbin.
footman attachment
The footman was not properly attached to the brass crank, so it kept falling off. I guess he had been the footman of another wheel and was wired to this one so he could be sold.
Seems a little cheap, but I stuck an antique button on the crank so the footman wouldn’t slip. It’s pretty, and it works, and that’s really all that matters to me at this point.
When it comes to antiques that I refurbish, I definitely adhere to the “Form Follows Function” school of thought. It’s great if it looks pretty, but I’m more interested in whether it can do the job or not.
Does it work?
A functional spinning wheel! Woohoo!The answer is yes.”
Does it work GOOD? Not Againbut it will.
Knowing that it has the potential to work properly means the world to me, as it just requires a few more tweaks. Then all I have to do is convince himself to let me take sheep.
Advantages and disadvantages of an antique wheel compared to a contemporary wheel
After refurbishing this antique wheel, I now have first-hand experience of the pros and cons of an older wheel versus a new one.
Advantages of antique wheels:
- High quality craftsmanship.
- Pleasing aesthetics (many are “Saxony” aka “Cinderella” style wheels).
- Lower cost.
Disadvantages of antique wheels:
- require a a lot work to make them work efficiently.
- Parts are often missing that are hard to find, expensive to replace, or time-consuming to create.
- Need more oil and maintenance.
Advantages of contemporary wheels:
- Easy to order and replace parts.
- If new, most have a warranty in case something breaks so the manufacturer can fix it.
- In general, good condition, especially if it is new.
Disadvantages of contemporary wheels:
- Expensive: Expect to pay around $1,000 for a decent wheel.
- More utilitarian than aesthetic, unless you’re shelling out several thousand dollars for an exceptionally beautiful Golding spinning wheel.
As you can see, there are pros and cons to both, and there can be additional cons and pros depending on the wheel itself, as well as the person refinishing it.
If you have a lot of free time and like to fend for yourself, then bringing an old spinning wheel back to life is a great project!
Alternatively, if you are not comfortable with woodworking, or are impatient and just want to keep going, consider buying a new or lightly used modern grinding wheel.
Depending on where you are, you might be able to score a really good one for $400 to $600.
Beware when buying antique wheels
Many people have accidentally purchased SWSOs (spinning wheel shaped objects) at antique stores and fairs. These were produced in the 1960s and 1970s as decorative pieces, but are not functional wheels. Yes
You can tell if your wheel is a real one by if there are actual grooves in the wheel (drive) so a band can be attached and if the spool and flyer can spin separately.
While some SWSOs can be adapted for spinning thread, many of them are unusable and should be used strictly for decorative purposes.
Also, many vintage wheels will have a maker’s mark and number somewhere on the table. Mine was underneath, and although the name has worn off over time, I can still make out the number 283 underneath.
If you find an antique wheel for sale and fall in love with it, ask the store owner if it is functional or not. Then, if they reassure you, ask for a demonstration. If they can’t figure out how it works or don’t seem to have the parts to make it happen, move on.
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